Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Gold Star Dining

You've all seen what FashionGeek thought of Gold by Harlan Goldstein when she had her PR hat on and took a bunch of journalists to visit. Now see what our food and travel guest blogger hkLifestyleGeek think. Contact her at

Wyndham Street is revving up the Central dining scene and bringing it some class is Gold by Harlan Goldstein in LKF Tower. Since its opening in November, the restaurant has been practically full most days, and in particular on weekends.

We went on a recent Monday night and the tables quickly filled up. Apart from the gold-tiled glass circular bar at the entrance that didn't appeal to me that much, the atmosphere is quite sophisticated and the attentive staff help make it an enjoyable dining experience.

As first timers, we were treated to a tasting menu that was more like six full courses with the portions that seemed regular-sized. But in the name of gourmet tasting we delved in and pretty much ate everything.

For starters, we liked the pungent smell of the porcini mushroom flat bread topped with black winter truffles which was a decadent touch. We also enjoyed the scampi tails that were very fresh, perfectly cooked and came with radicchio and stracchio, a type of Italian cow's milk cheese.

Next up was baby squid, pancetta, polenta, fava beans in black ink sauce. This dish didn't have any particular resonance with me except it was nice to have some polenta, a simple hearty ingredient with the fava beans. The squid was neither here nor there due to the lack of flavour.
But taste buds were cheering with Goldstein's signature dish, hand-crafted angel hair with red prawn, fresh cherry tomatoes and basil. Now this dish was full of taste thanks to the tomato-based sauce, while the prawn was quite large and meaty. I couldn't help but finish my plate it was so good.

That made it harder to tackle our mains and we each ordered a different one to taste. Unfortunately the slow-cooked Iberico pork rack, black fig and port wine reduction fell flat though it sounded good on the menu. The pork was on the tough side and didn't have much flavour. However we liked the Colorado lamb ribs that came with broccolini and porcini puree which was very tender and juicy, and the same goes for the charcoal-grilled rib-eye of beef, morel mushrooms with roasted garlic puree.

Each of the mains had whole roasted garlic which we all dug into; roasted a touch longer and they would have made great spreads for the bread.

As if that wasn't enough, we only had a short breather before Gold's dessert surprise. And it was a delicious treat too -- layers of cream, chocolate mousse and cookie crumbs (Oreos) at the bottom served in champagne flutes. We literally had to dig in to spoon out the sweet smooth and crunchy treasure and savoured every spoonful until the glasses were pretty much scraped clean.

Kudos to Goldstein for his creative and consistent output of dishes -- no wonder his restaurant is full most of the time.

Gold by Harlan Goldstein
Level 2, LKF Tower
33 Wyndham Street
Lan Kwai Fong
2869 9986

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