Monday, July 21, 2014

Review: Seasons by Olivier Elzer


I was super excited to try out Seasons by Olivier a couple weeks ago when a lovely friend decided to take me there for my birthday celebrations. I had been a fan of Chef Elzer’s food at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and was keen to see how it matched up when he ventures out to open his own place. We were prepared to give the restaurant some leeway given that it was the first week of opening but in all honesty, that leeway really wasn’t needed. Chef Elzer obviously had his team all up and ready to roll.

Chef Elzer obviously has a number of fans around town as the restaurant was comfortably filled (unlike at Eighteen Sharp where we were the only diners the entire night!) and people kept walking in even at ten or so to have dinner. Rather than going for the tasting menu (where it’s omakase style and you don’t know what you’re getting) or the set menu, we opted for a la carte.


My first thought when I saw the bread basket was yums and signs of a good meal to come. What can I say? I love my carbs.

We had a delish steak tartare (go for the spicier version which had a perfect balance of flavours) and a grilled tuna belly with a tangy sauce on a bed of avocado. We tasted some aniseed in the finishing and was a lovely refreshing course for this summer heat.


When I saw the skate wing, I couldn’t resist. It was rich, indulgent and oh so good. The meat was tender but not mushy and lifted right off the wing with a gentle scraping of the knife. The sauce was a tad salty so for the thinner sides of the wing, it was a bit overpowering. The other main we had was the duck leg confit. The skin was uber crispy while the meat had that nice preserved salty flavor while not being too salty.


The only disappointing dish was the cheese platter which we felt was a bit overpriced for the four little bits we got. I guess the manager agreed as he voluntary gave us another platter when he walked past and saw it.

If you’re a fan of soufflé, go for the passion fruit soufflé with mango sorbet. The soufflé was perfect. Absolutely perfect. Fluffy, light and I loved the tangy taste of the passion fruit. It’s rare these days for me to recommend restaurants to people given the inconsistency of restaurants but I must say this one is worth going to. Dinner for the two of us, including a cocktail each, came to $1,600.

Lee Gardens Two 308, Causeway Bay, 2505 6228

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