It blows my mind that anyone at Theory even thought of asking Olivier Theyskens to join the brand. I mean, what kind of whacky corporate planning was that? Like Tsui Wah asking Alain Ducasse to create a set menu. I love Tsui Wah and all but... huh? But Theysken's Theory has me reconsidering awkward collabo-efforts. Because the prince of darkness sure did a spin on Theory, retaining the brand's white-collar American standouts -- suiting and fabulously, flatteringly cut pants -- but applying a bit of his gothic romance and subversive cool. To paraphrase, he made Theory emo. It's pretty good. And he's totally helped push forward the label's agenda of low-slung boot-cuts -- those trousers are FANtastic.